I went to the "How To" section of this forum to see what is involved in removing the rear wheel from my 07 Majesty 400. Apparently they are either so simple to remove that I am stupid for asking the question or it is so difficult that no one has done it. It was very easy on the Burgman. What's the story on the Majesty?????
just plain dave wrote:I went to the "How To" section of this forum to see what is involved in removing the rear wheel from my 07 Majesty 400. Apparently they are either so simple to remove that I am stupid for asking the question or it is so difficult that no one has done it. It was very easy on the Burgman. What's the story on the Majesty?????
wilmo ------------- 2005 Blue (the fastest) Majesty (34,028) Mods: GIVI pass. back rest, trimmed rear fender, blue LED dash lights, 7Jurock touring shield, blacked out exhaust, Mike's mirror extenders Other ride: Vintage 1986 Blue Honda Goldwing Aspencade (53,700)
When I had my tires replaced recently the shop said from now on they would charge more than they did due to the fact most of the suspension need to be removed to get to it. So my guess it's not at easy as say an old Yamaha street bike.
Life is like the lottery. You can't win if you don't play.
Removal of the rear wheel IS very easy. I had to do this a couple months ago due to a screw deciding my tire was where it belonged.
I'm going from memory here...
Remove the muffler (three bolts plus the collar at the front) then remove the filter box cover. The filter box then gets loosened. Loosen the nut holding on the axle (may need to set the parking brake so the wheel doesn't spin) Remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper, and pull it up off the disk. Then there are two bolts holding that half of the swing arm on, and one bolt at the base of the shock/spring, then the arm part comes right off. Then you can pull the wheel off.
I may be missing some details, but that's the gist. Once you get in there and start taking stuff off, you'll see. It's only about half a dozen bolts.
Thanks much for the info. Doesn't sound too bad. I just didn't want to wait till the air in my tire got soft before I knew how difficult it would be. The info I got here is much clearer than what I saw in the service manual.
If you do everything according to the service manual, except for the vital instructions such as torque wrench settings, you would need to disassemble half of the scooter every time you work on it. For example, to reach the oil or coolant bleeding screws, the service manual asks for complete seat and storage box removal. This is not necessary because both can be reached through the storage box by removing the cover that gives access to the spark plug. I agree with FrayAdjacent on the difficulty of removing the rear wheel.
Smokey Grey Majesty 2007 - Denso Iridium Plug - Yamaha Decals - Yamaha Sport Windshield - Blue Instrument Panel - White LED Front Position Bulbs - 5000K Diamond White H4 Headlights - White LED Shadow - J.Costa Variator
I changed my rear one time, but did not remove much plastic. My shed is about 1 foot above the ground, so I was able to have the rear tire hanging out the shed when it was on the center stand. Removed the rear arm and such. Word of advise, the nut on the back wheel is at 80 ft/pounds, so it is a bear to get loose, so loosen it before you try anything else. Since it was hanging in the air, it just dropped right off, and went to bike shop to get new one mounted.
Last time I needed a tire, the bike shop said $25 to install it. I was shocked, and asked them again. Yes $25 for a scooter. It did not take them 30 minutes to do it. I watched them, and they did the same thing, had the back suspended, and droped the tire right off.
2006 Siver Majesty
K&N Panel Air Filter Mod
Silly Scooter, Foam is for lawn Mowers
I just removed my rear wheel to have my tire changed. Happily I read this string first. I managed to get the wheel off in under 15 minutes with the tools I had. This forum continues to be a great resource for me. Thanks folks.
05 Maj 400
14g Dr Pulley Weights, Squeal Kit, Cee Bailey +4,+4, Headlight and Tailight Modulators, Home-made Mirror Extenders, Turn Signal Beeper, Air Horns, Top Box with added Brake and Running Lights, X-tra running lights, 12 Volt Accessory socket
I presume people have since learnt how to remove a rear wheel & tire, given the last post was 2 yrs ago.
I needed to remove the rear tire of my 2005 Majesty 400, last wk, & thanks to you previous posters, I was able to do it by gathering the info from all your posts & piecing them together.
I thought it would be of service if I put together a step-by-step way of doing it, hereunder, taking the info from your posts, in order that someone looking for this in the future, will be able to find it by looking in just 1 place.
Credit & my thanks go to you previous posters for this info that permitted me to remove the wheel myself.
It took me about 4 hrs to remove & replace the wheel; I took the time to clean, oil & grease parts & fasteners where appropriate, prior to re-assembly.
1. Place the scoot on the side stand. Place wheel chocks behind both front & back wheels. Set the parking brake.
2. Loosen the 22 mm axle nut with the help of a breaker bar & extension rod to clear the muffler as you rotate the breaker bar.
3. Release the parking brake. Remove the chocks. Place the scoot on the center stand & place the wheel chocks in front of & behind the front tire.
4. Remove the right air filter case: Loosen & remove 4 outside & 1 inside (the cover) phillips screws. Remove right air filter cover.
5. Loosen 3 muffler bolts 14 mm, + the 10 mm collar at the front end of the muffler. Support the rear end of the muffler with a 2x4 or equivalent of appropriate length, from ground/floor level, to bottom of muffler. Remove the 3 bolts 14 mm & then twist & pull off the muffler from the exhaust pipe. Set muffler aside.
6. Loosen & remove 2 allen 5 mm shcs (socket head cap screws), that fasten the filter box to the scoot.
7. Loosen & remove the 2 rear brake caliper retaining bolts holding the brake caliper, & pull/slide the caliper up off the disc/rotor. You might want to remove the 10 mm brake hose nut & holder to allow you to tie the caliper out of the way. Do not squeeze the brake lever when removing the brake caliper, or any time thereafter until the caliper has been re-assembled on to the brake rotor/disc.
8. Remove right rear shock absorber assy 12 mm lower bolt at the bottom/base of the shock/spring. Pull absorber off & to the rear of the swing arm.
9. Remove the swing arm: There are 2 bolts 14 mm on front end of swing arm holding that end of the swing arm to the engine block. Remove them. There are 2 bolts 12 mm on brake caliper holder. Remove them. Remove the 22 mm nut on the axle. The arm comes right off, by pulling straight out.
10. To take the wheel/tire off, hold the air filter box out of the way & have helper slide the wheel off.
11. If you are experiencing difficulty in pulling the wheel/tire off, OPTIONALLY: remove the LEFT shock lower nut/bolt... the left shock is also holding the wheel up--this will allow the wheel to drop down more and easily slide off the spline.
Upon re-assembly, if you apply 'Never-Seez' compound to the exhaust pipe end prior to twisting the muffler back on, it might make for easier extraction the next time the muffler needs to be removed.
Rear axle nut torque: 98 ft-lb Rear shock lower bolt torque: 21 ft-lb Rear brake caliper bracket and swingarm torque: 29 ft-lb Always install with blue threadlocker.
Thanks again, to you folks for posting this info previously.
I did mine the easy way. took it to the bike shop and paid. it took them maybe 45 min. for both front and rear tire replacement. I ended up with a $60 labor charge on top of the $97.03 for 2 pirelli diablo tires. It would have been an all day and maybe 2 day affair for a do it my self thing. I have a real bad knee and if it was twice the price I still would have been glad to pay it. john
Aging thread here, but I wanted to give a big "Thank You" to Myhardly, Careful Rider, and the rest of you for saving me the trouble of disassembling half the stinkin bike just to get a wheel off. Your method works great! The only problems I encountered were minor battles to hold up the dangling air box and shock while manipulating the wheel onto the shaft and then in getting the calipers back onto the disc. No so bad considering what Yamaha told me to do!
bdesj wrote:The only problems I encountered were minor battles to hold up the dangling air box and shock while manipulating the wheel onto the shaft and then in getting the calipers back onto the disc.
I completely removed the right shock absorber so it wasn't in the way at all, and after that, I tied the airbox out of the way. Removing the wheel was easy after that.
If it is too hard to get the brake caliper back onto the disc, you may need to "screw" the brake piston back in. Use long-nose pliers to rotate the piston clockwise until it is retracted enough. Here is a drawing from the service manual explaining this.
The upper image shows how to screw the piston in with pliers.
IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling the brake pads and replacing the caliper back on the disc, the recesses on the piston (indicated by "b" )must be aligned with the caliper as shown in the lower image.
The service manual says that the rear brake bleed screw must be loosened first in order to retract the piston, but I found out it is not necessary. It sure is easier to retract it if you let brake fluid escape (less turns needed), but you will need to connect a small hose to the bleed screw in order to collect the escaping brake fluid. It's better to take the extra effort of screwing the piston without loosening the bleed screw, in my opinion.
Here is some pictures I took recently when I remove both wheels. I used the money I saved on workmanship to buy a small motorcycle lift. Raising your scooter off the ground by only 13 inches is enough to make things a lot easier.
Using the instructions listed above I changed my original IRC's with 11,000 miles on them to michelen pilots. The only problem I had, if you would call it that, was removing the muffler bolts. Evidently they have lock tight on them and had to use a 24" breaker bar. The rear axle nut came off easily using the breaker bar and engaging the parking brake. Ichanged the front tire on a friends harbor freight changer and took the rear to a tire dealer near his home that charged $10.00 to mount the rear. Everything went back on without a hitch. I threw some additional grease in the speed sensor while the front wheel was off. It would be helpful if this post would be in the "how to section."